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Domenica Bastardi

Domenica Bastardi – Game 16 of 38: Lazio vs Cremonese – A gritty night at the Olimpico and another Lazio clean sheet

Curva Nord turnstile at Stadio Olimpico with Lazio supporters entering ahead of the home match against Cremonese.

Still riding the high from the win in Parma, it was back to Rome for a home game against Cremonese — now with the added novelty of Jamie Vardy’s name attached to them.

The side from Cremona had started the season impressively, picking up some eye-catching results — particularly wins away at Milan and Bologna. Heavily tipped by many to go straight back down, they’d so far looked anything but pushovers. Teams managed by Davide Nicola are always awkward: well-organised, physically committed, and usually flying early in the campaign.

Despite the 6pm kick-off, I decided to stay overnight in Rome, partly to make a proper evening of it — and partly because I’d arranged to join Eva later to celebrate her birthday.


Trip down & a cheeky snack

The journey down was smooth and stress-free. I managed to grab a seat with no one next to me, thanks once again to my friend Derek’s foolproof trick of checking the seating plan before leaving. So far, it’s never failed.

Whenever I’m in Rome, I like to top up my metro tickets in advance. With a couple already in my wallet, I sailed straight through without the usual queuing headache.

I took the metro to Flaminio, fully expecting the dreaded replacement bus to Piazza Mancini — only to be pleasantly surprised to find the tram running again. A small victory, but a very welcome one.

After getting off, I headed towards Ponte Milvio, stopping at Trapizzino on the way. Social media has turned it into a mini institution. The first time I’d gone, I wasn’t convinced — but I have to admit, they’ve grown on me.

Trapizzino takeaway filled with a selection of savoury Roman street food treats, enjoyed pre-match near Ponte Milvio before Lazio vs Cremonese.
A selection of goodies

The Trastevere branch is better known, but the Ponte Milvio one is excellent, especially with no queue. I went for the meatball filling, plus two supplì: a classic and one with puntarelle, which turned out to be surprisingly fun. Naturally, it all went down with a beer.

Feeling rather pleased with myself, I headed to the hotel.


Hotel stop & a Premier League reminder

I decided to give River Chateau Hotel another go, after the frustration of having to check out early last time — that unforgettable evening when my poor wife rang to say she’d been robbed while I was waiting at Ponte Milvio before Lazio–Juventus.

River Chateau is slightly pricier than Grand Hotel Fleming, but it’s definitely a step up in comfort. No disrespect to the Fleming, but the extra €10–20 feels worth it.

They kindly let me check in early, which meant I could relax for a bit and watch Newcastle vs Chelsea before heading back out. It was a thoroughly entertaining game — and also a reminder that referees and VAR in the Premier League are just as infuriating as they are in Serie A.


Back to Ponte Milvio

Silvia messaged to say they were parking up, so I headed back towards Ponte Milvio, stopping for a quick coffee en route.

I picked up three Borghetti — one each for Silvia, Stefano, and myself.

I met Silvia by the ice-cream shop. She asked if I wanted one, and rather surprisingly I said no — perhaps the idea of a beer felt more appropriate for a match day evening.

Once the ice cream was finished, we headed back to our usual spot. I grabbed two Ceres and offered to get Silvia a beer, but she opted for water instead. While catching up, she explained Stefano was delayed — he was at the pet hospital after his poor car had been attacked by a dog.

After finishing my beers, we began walking towards the stadium, Borghetti in hand. We shared Stefano’s too, knowing he wouldn’t make it until half-time.

Another matchday rhythm restored. Another night at the Olimpico about to begin.

Getting in

It was about an hour before kick-off, but it felt unusually quiet — quieter than normal, with a slightly subdued atmosphere hanging in the air.

I said goodbye to Silvia as she headed to her turnstile and I to mine, agreeing to meet at the bar at half-time.

A quieter-than-usual Curva Nord inside Stadio Olimpico before kick-off, with Lazio supporters gradually taking their places ahead of the Cremonese match.
A quiet Curva Nord

Once inside, I messaged Matteo. He said he was on his way in and told me where to meet him. After watching the Milan away game together, I’ve really grown to enjoy his company — proper passion for Lazio, the kind that makes games better just by standing next to him.

Scott and Matteo standing together in the Curva Nord before kick-off at Stadio Olimpico ahead of Lazio vs Cremonese.
Myself and Matteo pre-match

As the Curva slowly filled and kick-off edged closer, I headed to the toilet. And I have to say it: the toilets on the left side of the Curva are much better than the right. A small but important detail. I grabbed a couple of beers too — I’d asked Matteo if he wanted one and he’d said no, but I got him one anyway. I am my wife’s husband, after all — without sounding dodgy, she never accepts “no” when someone refuses a drink, and clearly I’ve absorbed that trait.

When I went back down, I couldn’t spot Matteo straight away. A large banner had gone up remembering Sinisa Mihajlovic, momentarily swallowing up the space. Once it came down, I found him and finally took my place beside him as kick-off approached.


The match

The game itself followed a familiar pattern. Lazio dominated large spells, moving the ball well and pinning Cremonese back, but without fully killing the contest off early. There was a slight edginess in the Curva too — maybe lingering fatigue from Parma, maybe just one of those nights where it takes a spark to lift everyone.

That spark came in flashes: moments of sharp movement, good pressing, and a sense that if we kept pushing, the breakthrough would arrive. Cremonese were organised and stubborn, exactly as expected, but never truly comfortable.

At half-time, I headed to the bar to meet Silvia and Stefano. Stefano looked visibly shaken — his poor cat had clearly been through a lot, and it was written all over his face. Still, we shared a drink together, and I realised how much I love this new little ritual of meeting them at the interval. It breaks the game up nicely, grounding everything in something human and familiar.

That said, the beers were starting to take their toll. So much so that in the second half, I even accepted a cigarette from Matteo. That’s rare for me — I usually only smoke at the two derbies, or back in the days when I used to run summer schools. A sure sign it had been a long few days.

Scott having a cigarette in the Curva Nord after a few too many pre-match drinks, relaxed and smiling before kick-off at Stadio Olimpico.
A rare cigarette for me!

As the second half wore on, Lazio managed the game well, staying patient and composed but struggled to score. It wasn’t frantic, it wasn’t chaotic — just controlled, professional, but it wasn’t enough to see a win. 

Another home game ticked off. Another night under the lights. Another chapter quietly added to the season.

Post-match

After the final whistle, I felt more frustrated than euphoric. I’m not entirely sure we deserved to win but felt we did enough to grab a win — these are the kinds of games you have to grind out and win if you want to finish in a European place. With suspensions and injuries piling up, it was always going to be awkward, scrappy, and a bit unsatisfying.

I headed over to L’Altro Kiosk, where I first bumped into Simone. I asked him where Eva was; he thought she was nearby but wasn’t completely sure. I got him a drink and we had a proper catch-up before I ran into a few other familiar faces.

Not long after, I spotted Eva. I was really pleased to be able to get her a birthday drink, and she suggested heading on to Mad for Beer. Before that, though, we all got to sing happy birthday to her — obviously in Italian. It was great fun, and you could see how genuinely happy she was at that moment.

Poor Giulia had to endure me trying — and failing — to string together sentences in my awful Italian. As always, she was endlessly patient with me.

By this point, though, I could feel the beer had finally beaten me. I really wanted to go on to Mad for Beer, but I’m old enough — and ugly enough — to know when to call it a night. So I opted for the classic Irish goodbye and made my way back to the hotel instead.

It had been a really fun evening — but I knew I’d had enough. And judging by how much I struggled on the journey back the following day, that instinct was absolutely spot on.

Matchday experience

CategoryDetails
FixtureLazio vs Cremonese
CompetitionSerie A
StadiumStadio Olimpico
Kick-off18:00
Matchday moodSubdued pre-kick-off, lifted as game went on
OpponentsCremonese (strong early-season form)
TravelTrain from Florence to Rome
In-city transportMetro to Flaminio + tram to Piazza Mancini
Pre-match areaPonte Milvio
Pre-match foodTrapizzino (meatball filling, supplì)
Pre-match drinksBeer, Borghetti
HotelRiver Chateau Hotel
Curva positionStanding, central Curva Nord
Pre-kick-off momentBanner for Sinisa Mihajlovic
Half-time ritualDrinks with Silvia & Stefano
Post-match stopL’Altro Kiosk
Post-match moodFrustrated but reflective
Night outBirthday drinks for Eva
Journey backHotel on foot / tram
Following dayTough return journey

Conclusion

Not every match day has to end in fireworks to feel meaningful. Cremonese at home was messy, imperfect, and slightly frustrating — but it still delivered moments of connection, routine, and quiet joy that make these trips worth it.

This was also my last game of the year. Sadly, I won’t be making Udinese away, as I’ll be in Palermo with Liosa instead.

That means the next chapter will be Napoli at home — made even better by the fact that Nigel will be visiting from Singapore with his wife. A new game to look forward to, new memories waiting, and the season rolling on.

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