After a chaotic few weeks, I decided to make the Atalanta away match into a proper weekend trip — a chance to visit a new city, explore somewhere I’d never been, and enjoy a change of scenery.
I booked an Airbnb in Bergamo for the weekend, eager to see what all the fuss was about. I’d heard plenty of great things about the city’s beauty and charm — its stunning Città Alta, the views, and the food — but also plenty of warnings that Atalanta’s fans weren’t exactly known for their hospitality.
Historically, there’s no love lost between Lazio and Atalanta supporters. The rivalry has grown particularly fierce over the past decade, and it’s no secret that Lazio fans often sing “Odio Bergamo” — “I hate Bergamo” — during matches.
Despite that, I was curious to experience it for myself. What’s interesting is that the club isn’t even called Bergamo; Atalanta takes its name from the figure of Greek mythology, chosen by local students in the 19th century as a symbol of speed and courage, while Bergamo remains the city’s proud identity behind the team.
Heading north, I wasn’t optimistic about the game itself — Atalanta are strong, especially at home — but I was genuinely excited to discover a new city, soak up the atmosphere, and see what kind of welcome awaited us.
And, to my surprise, that welcome turned out to be far warmer than expected.
As for Lazio, we have been impossible to predict lately: a 1–0 defeat in the Derby della Capitale was followed by a dominant 3–0 win away at Genoa, then a chaotic 3–3 draw at home to Torino. This game in Bergamo was never going to be easy — Atalanta are always tough opposition — but with this Lazio side, you never quite know what might happen.
Making a weekend of It
Having never been to Bergamo before, I decided to turn this away day into a proper weekend trip — and my wife, Liosa, along with our two dogs, joined me for the adventure (though she and the dogs wisely gave the match itself a miss!).
Liosa finished work at 13:00 at the language school where we both teach. In hindsight, we should’ve planned ahead and got her to take the whole day off, but by early afternoon we were on the road.
The drive took around four hours, slowed a little by a few necessary stops — the dogs needed to stretch their legs, and I needed both a toilet break and a strong coffee.
When I ordered a takeaway coffee at one of the motorway services, I was stunned to be told it would cost an extra euro just for the cup!
Considering service station prices are already inflated, I refused on principle. Instead, I brought the dogs inside, and we sat down together for a relaxed coffee break — much nicer than rushing anyway.
Finding our Airbnb was surprisingly easy. I’d chosen it mainly because it was dog-friendly, had parking, and was only a 20-minute walk from the stadium — the perfect base for the weekend.
My good friend Irene, who’s from Tuscany, had kindly sent over a few recommendations from her Bergamasco cousin, and it turned out that two of his top picks were right near our accommodation.
We started the evening at Sandrina Wine & Food, a stylish little wine bar that immediately impressed. The cheese and meat platter was excellent, and the red wine we shared was even better — the sort of place that makes you feel instantly at home.
Afterward, we began walking toward Bergamo Alta, but Millie, my older dog, suddenly stopped by a nearby bar (Reef Cafe) and pawed at the door. A local opened it and invited us in — and before I knew it, I was surrounded by Atalanta stickers plastered across the walls.
Tempted by the tap list, I spotted Super T, but Liosa quickly reminded me of my self-imposed ban. I settled on an IPA (Goose Island) instead — and it turned out to be a great choice.
Everyone was friendly and welcoming, though I couldn’t help but think this probably wasn’t the best place for me to return to in Lazio colours the next day.
Later, when I sent a photo to Irene, she laughed and said her cousin often goes there — and the only reason he didn’t recommend it was because it’s a known spot for Atalanta ultras!
After a couple of drinks, we decided to grab some food to take back to the apartment. We stopped at Fudbox, another of Irene’s cousin’s suggestions, and it didn’t disappoint. The burgers were fantastic — the perfect end to a relaxed first evening in Bergamo. I’d definitely recommend it to anyone visiting the city.
Match Day
Whenever we’re away, there’s a long-standing rule in our house: I’m not allowed to speak to Liosa until I’ve fetched her morning coffee and pastries. This trip was no exception.
I headed across to the bar opposite our Airbnb to pick up a takeaway breakfast — a cappuccino and a couple of pastries — before peace could officially begin.
Once everyone was fed and happy (including the dogs), the four of us set off to explore Parco Suardi, the beautiful walled park that surrounds Bergamo Alta.
The views were stunning, and it was a perfect place for the dogs to stretch their legs. We stopped at a small café along the way for a quick coffee — and, in my case, an amaro to soothe my sore throat.
Afterwards, Liosa went off to visit the Accademia Carrara, Bergamo’s impressive art museum, while I took the dogs for a long walk up through the winding streets to Città Alta.
Even with the climb, it was worth every step — the panoramic views, historic buildings, and narrow cobbled lanes made it one of the most beautiful old towns I’ve visited in Italy.
A couple of hours later, we met back up and stopped to pick up some supplies for later. While I was still wandering the aisles, Liosa waited outside KEFAKOFFEE, and the kind owner not only invited her and the dogs inside but even gave Millie a little cushion to use as a pillow.
They brought out some incredible homemade hummus, and we enjoyed a couple of glasses of red wine while chatting with the staff — a lovely reminder of how warm and welcoming Bergamo can be.
The plan had been to head back there later in the evening for a nightcap, but that didn’t quite happen. After the match, I’d had a few too many beers and managed to irritate Liosa — so our relaxed evening plans turned into a liquid-fuelled night (for me) instead!
The Match
Approaching the stadium, the police presence was heavy and, to be honest, the cops weren’t exactly friendly — but the stewards were polite and helpful.
During the week, I’d arranged to meet Matt, a fellow English Lazio fan, and once inside the ground I messaged him.
He soon joined me, and we spent a good while chatting about our shared experiences following Lazio, this season’s ups and downs, and the never-ending question of whether Claudio Lotito will ever sell the club.
Pre-match, I sampled a couple of beers — and discovered that Atalanta had Castello on tap, which, surprisingly, was probably the best beer I’ve had in a stadium this season. They also offered a kind of caffè Borghetti substitute, but it was only 5% and tasted pretty weak. It was one for three euros or five for ten — I’m glad I didn’t take the bulk deal!
The Lazio fans were absolutely brilliant from start to finish. Before kick-off, the ultras came round handing out blue and white gloves for everyone to wear, creating a really striking effect in the away end once the chanting began.
Despite the hostility often associated with Bergamo, the atmosphere was electric, and the travelling fans never stopped singing.
As for the football itself, it was a tough, tense 90 minutes. Lazio came to Bergamo with low expectations and left with something that, in truth, felt like a small victory: a hard-earned 0–0 draw against an Atalanta side that dominated much of the game.
The home team pressed high and controlled possession from the start, while Lazio struggled to keep the ball and were forced into long spells of defending deep.
Atalanta had the better chances, hitting the post and forcing several sharp saves from Provedel, who was outstanding throughout.
Lazio offered little going forward — Dia and later the substitutes were too isolated to make much impact — but defensively the side stayed disciplined. Mario Gila and the full-backs worked tirelessly, clearing cross after cross and keeping their composure even under intense pressure.
By the final whistle, Atalanta looked frustrated that they hadn’t converted their dominance into three points, while Lazio’s players and fans celebrated a point that felt hard-earned and deserved.
The stats told one story — Atalanta had far more shots, more of the ball, and more territory — but the scoreboard told another: 0–0, a clean sheet, and a point in a city where Lazio rarely get an easy ride.
For a weekend that started as a mini-break in a new city, it ended exactly how this Lazio season often feels — not calm, not perfect, but very much alive.
Post-Match
After the final whistle, I decided to grab one more drink before calling it a night — and it turned into quite the social evening. I met up with Piermichele, who was visiting from Tuscany, before spotting Max, Giulia, Lids, and Eva. A few minutes later, I bumped into Mattia, who I’d first met through Francesco and Lucio at the Sassuolo game.
As we started moving toward the exit gate, I also caught sight of Luca, Elga, and Gianina, more familiar faces from back home.
Myself and Matt were waiting (semi-patiently) to be let out, both in urgent need of a toilet stop.
As we were finally about to leave, Matt reminded me to take off my Lazio scarf — a very good call, as wearing it outside the away section could’ve caused problems.
After nearly an hour’s wait, the police began allowing the buses to leave first — and we took advantage, slipping out behind one of them.
Once outside the perimeter, it didn’t feel particularly safe; tensions were still high, so we kept our heads down and moved quickly away from the stadium before finding somewhere discreet for that much-needed toilet break.
We said our goodbyes soon after, promising to meet up again next time Matt was back in Italy.
I headed off to meet Liosa back at the bar, though she wasn’t too impressed that I might have had one or two too many beers.
Finding somewhere to eat proved tricky, so we called it a night — but it had been a brilliant day overall, full of football, friends, and a surprisingly warm Bergamo welcome.
The Return to Florence
The next morning came far too soon. I was up early — earlier than I’d have liked — packing the car while nursing a mild hangover.
I stopped at the local bar for a couple of takeaway coffees before we hit the road around 7:00 a.m. Unfortunately, I had to be back in Florence for work by 13:00, so there wasn’t much time to spare.
Feeling tired and slightly fragile, I wasn’t exactly looking forward to the long drive home.
Thankfully, we found a lovely service station along the route, complete with a small dog park — the perfect spot for the dogs to stretch their legs. We grabbed sandwiches and another much-needed coffee before getting back on the motorway.
Usually, I’d only stop once, but this time I needed a second quick break — both for me and the dogs! We finally rolled back into Florence just after midday, giving me just enough time to get changed and head straight to work.
Exhausted but content, it wrapped up another memorable weekend following Lazio — part football, part travel adventure, and as always, a story worth telling.
The Matchday Experience
Stadium Name: Gewiss Stadium (Stadio di Bergamo)
Attendance: 22,342
Ticket Price: €40
Petrol Costs: Approximately €60 (round trip from Florence) plus €50 toll
Parking: Free – included with the Airbnb accommodation nearby
Beer-o-Meter: ★★★★☆ – Castello on tap and probably the best beer I’ve had in a stadium this season!
Food: Fudbox burger the day before the match – absolutely fantastic.
Waiting time to leave the stadium: Around one hour before away fans were allowed to exit
Cost of the Trip
This trip to Bergamo wasn’t too hard on the wallet, especially considering it doubled as a weekend away. Petrol came to around €60 for the round trip, and with free parking at the Airbnb, that was one less expense to worry about.
The match ticket cost €40, which felt fair for a Serie A away day. Food and drink were also reasonably priced — the Fudbox burger offered excellent value, and the Castello beer inside the stadium was both good quality and fairly priced. The stop at Sandrina Wine & Food, a lovely spot with a relaxed atmosphere and excellent service; the wine was superb, though definitely not cheap.
All in all, it turned out to be a great-value weekend: a new city explored, a decent result for Lazio, and plenty of good food and drink — even if the drive back to Florence the next morning felt slightly longer than usual!
Conclusion
It’s funny, really — Lazio fans are known for singing “Odio Bergamo” (“I hate Bergamo”), but after this trip, I can’t help but smile at the irony. When I sing it, I know it’s aimed at Atalanta, not the city itself, because Bergamo is anything but hateable. It’s a beautiful place — charming, welcoming, and full of character.
The views from the Città Alta, the great food and wine, and even the unexpected friendliness of the locals made it one of the most enjoyable away weekends I’ve had.
On the pitch, a 0–0 draw might not have been thrilling, but off it, the experience was everything you could want from a football trip: good company, great atmosphere, and a reminder that sometimes, even your “enemy’s” city can surprise you in the best possible way.
Next up, things don’t get any easier — we welcome back Igor Tudor and his Juventus side to the Olimpico. It promises to be a fascinating reunion and a real test for Lazio, as the former coach returns to Rome looking to spoil the home crowd’s afternoon.
