After the derby defeat — and with suspensions and injuries piling up — I couldn’t help but feel worried. Danilo Cataldi was the only available central midfielder in the first-team squad, and rumours were swirling that Toma Bašić might be reintroduced just to fill the gap. Confidence wasn’t exactly high, especially considering that Lazio hadn’t beaten Genoa away in years.
As I started looking at travel options, I made what might have been a bold — or foolish — decision: to give FlixBus a second chance!
Travelling down
Looking at the train prices and not wanting to drive alone, I decided to give FlixBus another try. My only previous experience with them had been a night bus from Rome back to Florence a couple of years ago — and it was awful. During the day, it’s a simple three-hour trip, but at night it detours via Siena, stretching the journey to five uncomfortable hours. While everyone else slept peacefully, I struggled with the stifling heat and a broken toilet — the handle came off in my hand, the light didn’t work, and to make matters worse, Tiburtina at 2 a.m. is not exactly the nicest place to be wandering around alone.
Originally, I’d booked the 7:30 a.m. bus, but the day before the match, I started to question that decision. With the game not kicking off until 20:45 and me having already visited Genoa back in 2021, an early start felt unnecessary. So I changed to the 11:30 bus, aiming to arrive around 2:30 p.m. — and it turned out to be a good call. The journey down was smooth, comfortable, and best of all, I had an empty seat next to me.
Unfortunately, the journey back would prove to be a completely different story!
Focaccia, wandering around the city, and a cheeky beer
Once off the bus, I’d planned to visit the Genoa Football Museum, but it turned out to be closed. So, I decided to wander along the seafront, where I spotted what might just be the best-located Burger King in Italy, overlooking the port.
A student of mine from Genoa had told me to try the local focaccia, and I’m glad I listened — it didn’t disappoint! After that, I strolled through the city, stopping by the Piazza De Ferrari fountain, before slowly making my way toward the stadium.
When I reached Scalinata Montaldo, I took one look and decided I definitely didn’t want to walk back up those steps later. While I didn’t count them myself, it’s said there are 289 steps — and I believe it!
The staircase leads you right past the section where the Genoa ultras stand, so I made sure, as always, to keep my colours hidden until I was near the stadium — in Rome, I usually wait until Ponte Milvio before putting on my scarf.
Having never been to the Stadio Luigi Ferraris (Marassi) before, I walked around trying to find the away entrance. If you ever travel there for an away match, it’s Gate 8, on the corner — you’ll know you’re close when you spot all the police! The signage isn’t great, so a bit of wandering is almost inevitable.
Once I knew where to go, I headed off in search of a pre-match beer. Sticking to Liosa’s rule of “no Super T”, I settled for a Ceres — still strong, but not quite as lethal! It hit the spot perfectly before the night ahead.
The entrance
Arriving early turned out to be both a blessing and a curse. On the plus side, there was no queue, and the police and stadium staff were friendly and efficient. But once I reached the bag check, I started to regret being so punctual — the security team were thorough, to say the least.
They even confiscated my pens and pencils, which caught me completely off guard. As an English teacher, I always travel with a few, and it never occurred to me they’d be seen as a potential issue! I was more worried about them taking my phone charger, but fortunately, that escaped their attention — or they simply didn’t care.
Once inside, I finally understood why people describe the Stadio Luigi Ferraris as iconic. It has a unique, old-school charm — steep stands, tight corners, and an atmosphere that feels ready to erupt even before kick-off.
The toilets, however, were another story. Like at many Italian stadiums, the away end facilities were pretty grim. Not quite as bad as Fiorentina’s Stadio Franchi, but still nothing to boast about — holes in the floor that brought back memories of old roadside toilets in France. I quickly opted for the urinal, which felt like the safer, less traumatic option!
Before heading to my seat, I grabbed a beer and a water, though in my half-Italian, half-English confusion I somehow ended up with two waters instead of two beers — definitely my fault, not his. Still, spirits were high. The Lazio fans were in great voice, singing and waving flags with enthusiasm, even if most of us weren’t exactly brimming with optimism before kick-off.
The match
Given the tension and the team’s depleted midfield, Lazio delivered a disciplined and determined performance at Marassi, earning a superb 3–0 victory over Genoa. From the first whistle, it was clear that the players were intent on showing a reaction after the derby defeat — and they did exactly that.
Matteo Cancellieri stood out with his energy, pace, and directness, constantly driving forward and pressing Genoa’s back line. He looked hungry to impress, taking on defenders with confidence and creating dangerous moments every time he was on the ball. Up front, Taty Castellanos led the line with power and purpose — full of running, chasing down every loose ball, and showing real determination. His hard work finally paid off as he found the net, capping off a fantastic individual display that summed up his attitude and importance to the team.
In the first half, I noticed Lidia and Giulia sitting just below me. With around 15 minutes left, I went for a tactical toilet break, said a quick hello on the way, and promised to come back. When I returned — beer in hand — I joined them for the closing stages. Their passion and love for Lazio are infectious; it’s fans like them who make these away days special. I later saw it was Giulia’s birthday the next day, and she even celebrated at an Autogrill on the way home with cake and Prosecco — the perfect way to round off a big win!
And then there’s Pedro, who once again showed just how deeply he understands what it means to play for Lazio. His connection with the fans is genuine — as always, he was one of the first players to come over to applaud the Curva, a gesture that never goes unnoticed.
From start to finish, the Lazio supporters were incredible. The away sector sang relentlessly, pushing the team forward with every chant. Even after the final whistle, the celebrations continued long into the night — a 3–0 win away from home, a clean sheet, and a performance full of heart, fight, and pride. This was Lazio at their best — united, passionate, and defiant.
Getting out and the walk back
After the final whistle and the celebrations in the away end, reality set in — I still had to figure out how to get back to the bus stop for my return to Florence. I didn’t really have a plan beyond “Plan B: walk”, though the idea of tackling those steep steps again didn’t exactly fill me with joy.
I first tried to hop on one of the shuttle buses heading toward the nearest station, but as it turned out, the one I boarded was reserved for the Lazio Ultras. Not wanting to end up in the middle of their convoy, I quickly got off and decided to make my own way instead. Eventually, I joined the slow trickle of regular fans heading toward the exit.
To be fair, the post-match delay wasn’t too bad — we were finally let out around 23:23, in small groups. That system made sense for safety, but as I stood waiting, I realised my blue top might have been a poor choice. Without my scarf, I wasn’t clearly identifiable as Lazio, but anyone paying attention might have taken me for something even worse — a Sampdoria fan!
On my way to the bus stop, I spotted the Scalinata Montaldo steps again and decided it would actually make more sense to climb them and cut across rather than take the long route around. Big mistake. As someone who’s dropped 30 kg over the past few years, I’m much fitter than I used to be — but those 289 steps still nearly finished me off. Without any water, it was a real slog, and I had to stop a few times to catch my breath. Still, I couldn’t help but feel a small sense of pride when I reached the top.
From there, I took a slow walk through the quiet streets toward the main bus stop. Genoa at night has its charm, but walking alone through some of the darker parts of the city was a bit unnerving. When I reached the waterfront, it felt particularly eerie and unsafe, with few people around and little lighting. I’d enjoyed the day overall, but at that moment, I couldn’t help thinking that I’d never have wanted my wife with me on that walk — it just didn’t feel comfortable.
By the time I reached the terminal, I was hot, tired, and ready to head home… little did I know, the night’s adventures were far from over.
The return to Florence
And then the real ordeal began. I arrived at the bus stop around 00:30, ready to head back, only for the FlixBus app to announce that my bus was delayed by two hours. As I kept checking, the estimated departure kept creeping further and further back.
Seeing another bus scheduled for 2:30 a.m., I bought a second ticket — ironic, considering I had chosen FlixBus in the first place for cost savings. I figured this way I could hop on whichever bus actually arrived. While sitting on the pavement, the app insisted that both buses were delayed, until finally, I spotted my original bus arriving right on time. I ran over, checked with the driver, and was relieved — yet slightly frustrated — to hear that the bus wasn’t actually delayed, despite the app’s warnings.
I could easily have wandered off in search of a bar during the alleged delay, so in hindsight, I was grateful I hadn’t. The journey itself was bizarre: as we left the terminal, the bus detoured via Genoa Airport before looping past the aquarium, which seemed odd. Then, the motorway exit to Livorno was closed, not FlixBus’ fault, but it caused another delay. To top it off, the driver had to perform a three-point reverse turn to get back on track.
All the Italian passengers were bundled up warmly, but I was overheated and unable to sleep — it was a real struggle. Finally, at 5:17 a.m., we arrived back in Florence. I jumped straight into the car, and both Liosa and I agreed: never again with FlixBus, and certainly not for a night journey!
The Matchday Experience
- Stadium Name: Stadio Communale Luigi Ferraris
- Attendance: 30,824
- Ticket Price: €40
- Bus Costs: €38.76 including the extra ticket and the fee to change the morning bus
- Parking: €0 for street parking at the tram stop in Florence.
- Beer-o-Meter: €4 in the bar for a Ceres and €5 in the stadium but the latter wasn’t the best!
- Food: Focaccia plain was cheap (€1.20) and fantastic but I must the one with pesto which was a little more (€6.50 with a coke)
- Waiting time to leave the stadium: Let out at 23.23 which wasn’t ideal but could’ve been worse!
The matchday experience at the Stadio Comunale Luigi Ferraris was lively and well worth the trip. With an attendance of 30,824, the atmosphere was electric, and the €40 ticket felt like a fair price for such a memorable occasion.
Travel costs came to €38.76, including a last-minute bus change, while free parking at the Florence tram stop helped keep expenses down. Food and drink were reasonably priced — a €1.20 plain focaccia was a standout bargain, while the pesto version with Coke (€6.50) added a local touch. A Ceres for €4 pre-match hit the spot, though the €5 stadium beer was disappointing by comparison.
Leaving the ground took a while, with fans released around 23:23, but overall, it was a smooth and enjoyable away-day experience.
Conclusion
What a day in Genoa! Despite the chaos of the return journey and the FlixBus nightmare, the trip will stay in my memory for all the right reasons. From the moment I arrived, the city buzzed with that mix of tension and anticipation that only a big Serie A clash can bring. The atmosphere inside the Marassi was electric — the away section loud, proud, and united from the first whistle to the last.
On the pitch, Lazio delivered a much-needed response after the derby defeat, securing a 3–0 win with standout performances from Cancellieri and Taty Castellanos, while Provedel kept a crucial clean sheet, showing his reliability when it mattered most, especially after the VAR intervention overturned Genoa’s initial penalty.
Sharing the final moments with Lidia and Giulia, singing with the Curva long after full time, and soaking in the energy of passionate fans made every challenge of the day worthwhile. Even with missed buses, steep climbs, and sleepless hours, the combination of a strong team performance, incredible atmosphere, and camaraderie with fellow Laziali reminded me why following Lazio is always an adventure.
A crazy journey? Absolutely. But a great day, a dominant performance, and proof once again that supporting Lazio is never boring!
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