Domenica Bastardi – Game 18 of 38: Lazio vs Napoli – Red Cards, Curva Nord Choreography and a Roman Reunion at the Olimpico

With Christmas, New Year and our Palermo trip finally behind us, it felt great to be back in Rome for football. The first game of the year came against the reigning Serie A champions Napoli, with that awkward 12:30 kick-off that always feels more like a brunch appointment than a matchday.

My expectations for the game itself were low, but emotionally I was buzzing — mainly because I was finally going to see friends I hadn’t seen for far too long, especially Nigel and his wife Jin, who were over from Singapore.

Goodbye 2025

Looking back, 2025 was a strange year to be a Lazio fan.

The 2024–25 season had started brilliantly, full of optimism and momentum, but everything began to unravel after January. By the time we drew with Lecce on the final day, missing out on European qualification, it felt like a slow, painful deflation rather than a sudden collapse.

That failure led to Marco Baroni’s departure, and then — to the relief of most of us — the return of Maurizio Sarri.

Amazingly, Sarri didn’t immediately resign when he discovered the club was under a transfer ban and unable to offer players improved contracts. In fact, under those brutal circumstances, he’s done a remarkable job — all while dealing with what increasingly feels like a refereeing vendetta against Lazio.

Travelling Down and Catching Up

With a 12:30 kick-off, it made sense to go down and back in one day and save myself a hotel. So it was an early start: tram, then a 7am train. I was so early at Santa Maria Novella that even my usual coffee place wasn’t open yet.

I settled for an overpriced espresso and a pastry before waiting for my platform — but at least I got a seat to myself, which always feels like a small victory.

Once in Rome, it was the familiar routine: Metro to Flaminio, then tram 2 out to Ponte Milvio.

I checked in with Francesco — he was on his way — but Nigel was already there, along with John from the Netherlands. It had been over a year since I’d last seen Nigel, so it was brilliant to finally spend some proper time with him again. He even brought me an amazing Lazio Singapore sticker, which instantly earned pride-of-place.

Nigel was still off the beer after a whole year — impressive. Even more impressive was that his wife Jin wasn’t. I often think I should drink less, but Lazio without beer feels almost sacrilegious.

Despite the early kick-off, it was clearly the right thing to do to have a couple of pre-match beers.

Francesco arrived soon after, and then we went to say hello to Lee, a Lazio fan from Bristol. Before long, it felt like the UN of the Curva Nord: Singapore, the Netherlands, England, Italy — all united by sky blue.

Silvia and Stefano were there too, as always. I’d originally met Silvia through Nigel years ago, which made the reunion feel even more circular.

Then I bumped into Luca and Janina and introduced them to Nigel. Luca was especially impressed that Nigel had travelled all the way from Singapore just to follow Lazio — and rightly so.

As kick-off approached, we knew it was time to move. Silvia produced the Borghetti, we had one last ritualistic shot, and then we headed towards the Olimpico, ready for Napoli.

The Match

If Lazio fans were hoping that a new year might bring a fresh start, Napoli had other ideas.

It finished 2–0 to the reigning champions, but once again the scoreline was only part of the story. Two more Lazio red cards turned what was already a difficult afternoon into another exercise in survival. Whatever Sarri’s Lazio do these days, they seem to be doing it with at least ten men — and sometimes nine — as referees continue to play an outsized role in our season.

Inside the Olimpico, though, the Curva Nord once again did its job. The choreography before kick-off was magnificent — a wall of colour, banners and smoke that reminded everyone why Lazio’s ultras are among the best in Italy, whatever the league table says.

At half-time I went for my traditional beer with Silvia, Stefano and their friend. As always, Silvia was the one doing the hard yards in the queue. Feeling guilty that she always ends up sorting the drinks, I offered her my card so she could just pay when she got there. She refused, of course — because that’s Silvia.

Luckily, I found my last €20 in my pocket and handed it over later at Ponte Milvio so she could use it for the beers. It felt like a small but important victory for fairness in the Lazio beer economy.

Post-Match

After the final whistle we drifted back towards Ponte Milvio, where I rejoined Nigel and the rest of the gang. Silvia had already headed back to Latina, but there were still eleven of us left — including Lucia, Mattia, and Mattia’s dad.

We ended up at Trattoria Pallotta. Somehow, despite having no booking and being a large, noisy group, we managed to get a table. The food there is always reliable — I still prefer Sugo, but Pallotta is a solid post-match option when you need somewhere that won’t let you down.

Mattia’s dad was brilliant company. He reminded me a lot of my own dad — full of personality, constantly joking with everyone, and always ready with a one-liner. We were talking about my nephew and his obsession with rugby when he looked at me and asked if I played.

“No,” I said. “I just watch.”

He laughed and replied, “So what’s your sport? Eating?”

Mattia told him off, but I won’t lie — I found it funny. Even better, he kept calling me “Professor” all evening. My students do the same, but it still makes me laugh every time.

After a disappointing result, sitting around a table with friends, food and football talk was exactly what I needed.

Returning to Florence

Stefano kindly dropped us at Termini afterwards. I said goodbye to Nigel, Jin and John — already missing them — and then swapped my train for one slightly earlier. Four euros well spent, especially as I once again managed to get a seat all to myself.

Liosa was delighted that I got home a couple of hours earlier than expected… although, after the match and a few beers, I probably wasn’t the most charming company in the world.

But that’s Lazio. Win or lose, it always finds a way to follow you all the way home.

Matchday Experience — Lazio vs Napoli (Olimpico)

Conclusion

Lazio may have lost to Napoli, and the red cards once again left a bitter taste, but days like this remind me why I keep coming back — why we all do.

Football, at least for us, is never just about the ninety minutes. It’s about Ponte Milvio, Borghetti on the walk to the Olimpico, Curva Nord choreography, half-time beers, and the strange international family that Lazio somehow creates — from Rome to Bristol, from the Netherlands to Singapore.

Seeing Nigel and Jin again, sharing laughs with Silvia, Stefano, Mattia and his wonderfully cheeky dad, and sitting around a Roman trattoria after a bad defeat felt far more important than the scoreline. These are the moments that survive long after goals and red cards fade.

2025 ended with frustration and missed chances, but 2026 had already started with what really matters: friends, football, and the feeling of being exactly where I’m supposed to be — in Rome, following Lazio, no matter what.