Coming into the Derby della Capitale, expectations for Lazio were modest at best. The team’s shaky display against Sassuolo the previous week had sown real doubts—would they have the mental strength or composure to handle the pressure of facing Roma? Many fans and pundits expected a difficult afternoon, with hope more cautious than confident.
My Derby Record
This was my 35th Derby della Capitale—and sadly, it turned out to be one of the most disappointing.
Going into the game, my personal record stood at 11 wins, 10 draws, and 13 losses. My first derby was back in March 2003, a 1–1 draw. I hadn’t even planned to go; I was in Rome with my friend Sarah and we went to Enza’s Lazio shop near Termini to buy tickets for the following week. Enza—“the Queen of Lazio”—told us: “Only derby tickets!” At €25, it was impossible to resist.
She told us to arrive early. We did—at least by English standards—but fans were already fighting outside. Roma supporters scattered when the police arrived, while the Lazio fans stood their ground. Unfortunately, the brawl shifted and suddenly we were in the middle of it, tear gas filling the air. It was my first time being gassed—and not my last, as I would experience it at three more derbies.
We had tickets for the Curva, but along with other Lazio fans we fled into the Distinti to avoid the violence. Inside, still stinging from the gas, a nut seller handed us tissues and said in English: “Don’t cry for Argentina.”
The atmosphere was unlike anything I’d ever seen. After just four minutes, Dejan Stanković lobbed the Roma keeper and the Curva exploded. Sadly, Antonio Cassano equalised two minutes from time. Victory slipped away, but the experience was unforgettable.
My two best derbies? The Paolo Di Canio game in 2005—his iconic volley from Fabio Liverani’s pass in a 3–1 win, remembered most for his Roman salute at the end. And, of course, the 2013 Coppa Italia Final, when Senad Lulić struck in the 71st minute to deliver Lazio the trophy and eternal bragging rights. As we say: “We don’t know when Roma were born, but we know they died on 26 May 2013.”
The worst? The 4–1 defeat during the Ultras’ boycott—no atmosphere, no heart. And 2022, my birthday derby, when we were humiliated 3–0.
Saturday Drinks and Food
I took the train from Florence to Rome—smooth, with the bonus of an empty seat beside me. My hotel near Termini was a new choice but handy for the lunchtime kickoff.
First stop: Er Bucchetto, for a porchetta roll and beer. A ritual. Then nostalgia hit—I returned to Finnegan’s, the Irish pub I used to frequent 25 years ago. Same as ever: tourists swapping the Colosseum for Premier League football, wives and girlfriends waiting ‘patiently’.
After that, The Shamrock to meet Derek, my Irish friend who always makes a long weekend of the derby. Later, I joined Sergei (Russian, Paris-based) and Classo (Swedish) at Bandana in Porta Pia. Decent pub food—my cotoletta hit the spot—and plenty of beers as we reminisced about old Lazio trips. Too many, in fact. Sergei wisely walked me back to my hotel, ignoring my pleas for “just one more.”
Fans Travelling for the Derby
The Derby della Capitale always attracts attention, not just from across Italy but internationally. Rumours swirled of more than 1,500 police on duty, with various Ultra groups in town.
Lazio’s Curva Nord welcomed groups like Levski Sofia’s West Sofia, Wisła Kraków’s Sharks, West Ham’s Inter City Firm, and Lokomotive Lipsia’s Blue Side Lok. On the Roma side, Panathinaikos’ Gate 13, Atlético Madrid’s Frente Atlético, and Dinamo Zagreb’s Bad Blue Boys joined the Curva Sud.
Pre-Match
Hungover but buzzing, I headed to Ponte Milvio at 9:30 a.m. The usual routine: beers, friends, paper bombs, and smoke filling the air. Stefano, Silvia, Sergei, and Stefano’s Singaporean girlfriend Elisabeth, experiencing her first derby. She was loving it, though startled by the constant explosions.
It was great hearing about Stefano and Elisabeth’s lives in Norway after meeting in Singapore. The three of us, along with Silvia, also talked about our mutual friend Nigel — probably Lazio’s most famous Asian fan and an all-around great guy! I must admit, after becoming (relatively) accustomed to the heat in Tuscany, I think I’d find it hard to move back to Northern Europe.
There were borghetti shots, pizza snacks, and a lot of laughs. Ninety minutes before kickoff, we began the march to the stadium, battling long queues and police checks.
Taking My Place
Inside, I followed superstition—straight to the toilets, then beers and a water (needed in the crazy heat). I found a spot low in the Curva, eventually joining Nico from the Lazio Dublin Crew and his friends after he’d spotted my standing alone. It was a throwback to 20 years ago, standing right behind the Ultras with Valentino.
The sun was relentless, the standing exhausting, but the atmosphere pure magic. If only the match had lived up to it.
The Game
Roma took the bragging rights with a 1–0 win, Lorenzo Pellegrini striking in the 38th minute after Nuno Tavares’ fatal error in possession. Lazio never truly recovered.
The tension boiled late on—Belahyane was sent off in the 86th, Guendouzi following the final whistle. With Lazio down to ten men, the drama peaked when Danilo Cataldi’s thunderous effort struck the post in the final minute. Seconds later, Lazio fans and players screamed for a penalty, but the referee waved play on. The Curva Nord erupted in fury.
A mistake, missed chances, and no luck. Roma held on.
When the final whistle blew, the Lazio players walked toward the Curva Nord to apologise. But instead of forgiveness, they were met with anger and told to leave. It was a brutal reminder of the fans’ frustration—not just with the defeat, but with the lack of heart shown on the pitch.
The Aftermath
Back at Ponte Milvio, we drowned our sorrows. At L’Altro Chiosco we dissected the defeat with Maria Chiara, Matteo, and others. To our disbelief, three foreign Roma fans tried to drink nearby—quickly chased off by chants and boos.
I got to catch up with Lidia and Eva, two passionate Lazio fans who travel everywhere to follow the team. I also ran into Max from Mad for Beer — our last, slightly drunken meeting was after Lazio’s loss to Lecce back in May! Then I was introduced to Giulia — though I didn’t realise at the time that we’d actually spoken before on Instagram about London. And of course, it wouldn’t be a Derby without spending some time with Derek!
The evening ended with a mix of Lazio fans from all over the world drinking and chatting about Lazio —Irish, Swedish, Russian, Spanish, Italian, and me, an Englishman. Despite the result, the company was unforgettable.
The Cost of the Trip
- Hotel (Hotel Villa delle Rose): €232 + €12 city tax
- Train (Italo return, booked in advance): €76.50
- Porchetta roll + beer: €9.50
- Pints: €6.50–€7.50 in the pubs
- Bandana (food + drinks): €50
- Match ticket: Season ticket (Curva/Distinti €45 if bought)
- Stadium beers: €5 each, water €2
- Post-match meal: €45
Beer-o-meter? Let’s just say: more than enough.
Conclusion
The 35th Derby della Capitale for me was unforgettable for all the wrong reasons on the pitch. Lazio were lifeless, lacking heart, and punished by Tavares’ costly mistake. A game without spirit, our first home derby defeat in nine years, and a brutal reminder of how far we’ve fallen—just three points from four games, goals hard to come by, and now injuries and suspensions piling up.
And yet, off the pitch, the weekend was special. Old friends, new friends, stories, laughter, beers, and porchetta rolls—the essence of being a Lazio fan and following the club through highs and lows.
The worry is that this season could be a long one. But the adventure always continues.
