97 days in and we’re hopefully three quarters of the way to Istanbul.
From Budapest to Belgrade, a total of 480km on the Danube, it’s been the longest week we’ve ever had and one of the most demanding. Leaving Budapest we saw the week’s main obstacle as the Serbian border. Instead, like your stereotypical Englishmen, this week’s biggest challenge has been the weather.
We smoothly crossed the Hungary-Serbia border on our fourth day, and a friendly woman at Hungarian border control was shocked that we were camping at this time of the year. We shrugged it off like everyday heroes. Then, that night as we camped on the Croatia-Serbia border, it got a lot colder and we realised why she was so impressed.
The four days since have seen icy cold nights that freeze our cooking oil and chilly mornings where mist rising off the river into the crisp air makes chugging tankers invisible.
During the day we make sure that we take the precautions. Hat, gloves, snood and waterproofs have become standard every-day wear. We make sure we’re layered up and can easily adapt to the conditions as the sun and our bodies warm up throughout the day.
We keep moving and try not to be stationary for too long outside. Where we can we stop for a hot coffee and something warm to eat: yesterday the small Serbian town of Stari Solanken won this week’s award for the world’s grittiest coffee.
At night staying warm is a bit more difficult. While our gas stoves ensure that we will always have hot food, the last two nights have seen us light campfires by the side of the river. As well as warmth, the campfire provides a great morale boost and staring into the flickering flames is a pretty relaxing way to end a long day. That long day is eventually put to bed by putting on as much dry clothing as possible and curling up in our sleeping bags, cosy in the tent.
However, knowing when to stop for coffee, how much cooking gas we’ll need for the week, whether we’re safe to light a camp fire and how far it is till our next warm shower is pretty dependent on good planning. Whereas previously looking at the map at the start of the week and in the mornings made sure we were efficient, right now it’s pretty important just for staying warm.
From here on in we are hoping that the temperatures shouldn’t get too bad as we move further east and into a new time-zone. With the sun rising later and the sun setting earlier, it definitely feels like we’re in a race against the clock and the weather to reach Istanbul.
For more detailed updates you can follow our progress @CanoeingEurope on Twitter and read our regular blogs at www.canoeingthecontinent.com.
